A garbage disposal that's been making grinding sounds for months before stopping entirely often has a seized bearing or cracked impeller β signs the motor isn't worth repairing. Our techs in Sharpes tell you honestly whether a repair or a same-day unit swap makes more financial sense.
π Call +1-855-718-1500 β Same-Day Service
We carry replacement units on the truck in common horsepower ratings so a same-day swap is possible when the motor has genuinely failed.
Hum but no spin: jammed impeller. No sound at all: tripped thermal overload or failed motor. Intermittent operation: loose wiring at the switch or disposal unit. Continuous drain from the sink collar: failed sink flange gasket. Leak from the side: dishwasher drain hose connection or internal body crack. We trace the symptom to the specific cause before recommending any solution.
InSinkErator (Badger, Badger 5, Compact, Evolution series), Moen GXS/GX series, Waste King, KitchenAid, and Whirlpool disposals all mount differently and have specific jam-clearing procedures. We know the mounting assembly for each brand and carry the correct jam-clearing wrench sizes.
A disposal that jams once is worth clearing and resetting. A disposal that jams repeatedly, has a seized turntable bearing, emits burning smells, or is over 10 years old is likely approaching motor failure β and the repair cost of a failed motor exceeds the cost of a new unit.
A disposal isn't an isolated appliance β it connects to the sink drain, the dishwasher drain (if present), and the drain arm leading to the p-trap. We inspect the full connection set during any disposal call: drain arm slope, dishwasher drain knockout (if a dishwasher is being added), and p-trap connection integrity.
Most disposal calls complete in 30β60 minutes β same visit, flat-rate pricing.
A disposal that hums with no rotation has a jammed impeller plate β the spinning plate has been stopped by a bone fragment, a piece of silverware that fell in, or hard food buildup around the shredder ring. We use the jam-clearing wrench at the center motor socket to manually rotate the impeller free, remove any obstruction from the grinding chamber, and press the thermal overload reset button before testing.
If power is confirmed at the disposal and it still won't start after a reset, the motor is failed. We then move to the replacement conversation with honest cost comparison.
We identify the leak source before recommending any repair. A sink collar re-seal is a 30-minute job. A unit with a cracked body has no cost-effective repair and warrants replacement.
If the turntable bearing has failed β indicated by a loud rumbling throughout operation rather than specific impact sounds β that's an internal motor wear failure that warrants replacement.
A disposal that grinds normally but drains slowly has a blockage in the drain arm or p-trap β not an internal disposal problem. Food particles and grease accumulate in the short drain arm between the disposal outlet and the p-trap. We disconnect and clean the drain arm, clear any p-trap buildup, and reinstall with clean connections.
Replacement includes: safely disconnecting electrical at the junction box under the sink, removing the old unit and mounting assembly, installing the new unit with correct wiring and plumbing connections, testing for full jam-free operation, and verifying zero leaks at all connections before leaving.
A disposal call takes 30β60 minutes in most cases. Here's exactly how it goes β from your first call to a clean, functional kitchen drain.
If you know the disposal is over 10 years old, tell us β that changes how we approach the repair-vs-replace conversation upfront.
The tech identifies the failure type in minutes: jam test at the motor socket, reset button check, power confirmation at the wire connections, leak source tracing. We know what each symptom means and we go straight to confirming it.
You decide. We don't upsell replacement when repair is the right answer, and we don't push a cheap repair that won't hold on a unit that's genuinely at end of life.
After repair or replacement, we run the disposal through a full test: several cycles with water running, check under the sink for any drip at all connection points, and confirm the drain arm clears at a normal rate.

The disposal under our kitchen sink was 12 years old and started leaking from the bottom β which the tech explained is always an internal seal failure, not a repairable condition. He had a replacement 3/4 HP InSinkErator on his truck, installed it in about 45 minutes, and the kitchen is back to normal. Old unit got pulled, new unit tested clean, no leaks at any connection.
After we added a dishwasher, it started backing up every cycle. Masters Plumbing Service found the problem immediately β the previous installer had forgotten to knock out the dishwasher drain plug inside the disposal inlet. The plug was blocking the drain port. Two-minute fix. The tech also tightened the dishwasher drain hose clamp, which was loose. Never had another backup.
Old disposal stopped working completely β no hum, nothing. I assumed the motor failed. The tech checked the wiring first β found a loose wire nut at the junction box under the sink that had vibrated loose over the years. Reconnected the wire, reset the overload button, disposal came right on. Would have been embarrassing if I'd bought a replacement unit. Masters Plumbing Service's thoroughness saved me a few hundred dollars.

Our trucks carry replacement disposal units in common horsepower ratings for same-day installation when the motor has failed.

Call now β same-day service available in Sharpes and across Sharpes, FL.
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